Landscape Care Guide

Phoenix Landscape Care Helping Your Investment Grow

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PHOENIX LAWN CARE GUIDE

Sod Lawns in Phoenix

Besides proper mowing maintenance, there are three critical ingredients required for a healthy green lawn: sunlight, water, and fertilizer. Insomuch as we have sunlight in great abundance here in the Sonoran Desert, we’re more concerned here about the factors we can control – amount and timing of irrigation and proper application of fertilizer.

Although sod lawns are instantly gratifying, healthy, and beautiful, they can be also somewhat uneven. Seams between rolls, as well as minor irregularities in the thickness of each sod roll, create an uneven surface. A lawn roller will insure proper root to ground contact, and will smooth out some of those bigger bumps. Additional settling occurs once regular irrigation is started. As the lawn becomes established, the uneven surface will gradually level. A sod lawn is considered a play lawn. To achieve a surface comparable to a golf course putting green, several seasons of sand or equivalent particulate application is required, and is typically labor intensive.

For information on available sod varieties, see our grower’s website at http://westernsod.com/

Irrigation

Hand watering of the outer edges around curves and corners for the first few weeks will help prevent the sod from drying out. Hand watering should not be necessary once the lawn is established.

Irrigate newly sodded lawn thoroughly to ensure a deep base of moisture. During the first 3 weeks, avoid heavy use of your new lawn. This gives the roots an opportunity to firmly knit with the soil and insures that the turf will remain smooth. Water four times each day - 4 to 8 minutes per set - during the daylight hours for the first two weeks. The third week, water once per day (early morning) for 10-15 minutes per set. The fourth week, water 2-3 times per week for 8-15 minutes. After that, water on an as-needed basis...infrequently, but deep watering is recommended.

After the sod has rooted, water every third day to a depth of 8". The best time to water is in the early morning when evaporation is the lowest. Deep watering will allow the roots to penetrate further and establish a more water-efficient lawn that is drought-tolerant. Use a long screwdriver to check for water penetration. If you can insert it 8-10” easily, you have adequate water depth in the soil.

Fertilizing

Ideally, a complete fertilizer should be applied on established lawns on a monthly basis. Use a complete fertilizer with a 3-1-2 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. For example, 21-7-14 or 15-5-10 are commonly available formulas. Use about 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet of grass every 4-6 weeks during the growing season.

Example: The fertilizer has an analysis of 21-7-14. The first number represents nitrogen. Divide 100% by 21, which is about 5. Therefore, 5 pounds of fertilizer are required to apply 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 100 square feet. By using a balanced fertilizer, when the correct amount of nitrogen is applied, the correct amount of phosphorus and potassium is also applied. Always apply fertilizer with a broadcast spreader, set to the manufacturer’s recommended setting.

Mowing

The first mowing should occur approximately 2-3 weeks after installation. Cut only the top 1- 1½” of the grass blade at one time. This may require mowing more than once a week to ensure proper length. Keep the mower blades sharp to prevent browning of the tips of the grass blades.

Winter Lawn Overseeding Process

Overseeding established lawns with winter rye can be done from mid October through late November, dependent on weather. Temperatures should be reaching the mid-sixties at night on a consistent basis for optimal germinating conditions.

1. Managing a thriving lawn Your established lawn (note: sod lawns should never be overseeded within the first three months of installation) will transition more smoothly if it is properly “managed” to slow down growth and encourage food storage for dormancy. Do not fertilize for four to six weeks prior to overseeding. Two weeks before overseeding, reduce watering by 50 percent.
2. Scalping and Dethatching Scalp (close mow) grass to approximately ½”. Rigorous dethatching of summer grass is not recommended, and should not be a part of fall overseeding unless heavy thatch exists. (Thatch is the fibrous, straw-like layer between the soil and the grass blades, built up over time by grass clippings not caught or raked during and after mowing.) If necessary, dethatch (verticut) just enough to open the canopy and allow the seeds to make contact with the soil. Early spring dethatching is best for healthy lawns. To have a professional in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area do this for you, click here
3. Selecting Seed and Sowing Rye grasses, both annual and perennial, are the most common grass types used for overseeding. Annual rye grass is less expensive per pound then perennial rye, but it requires more seed to cover the same area. Perennial rye is often preferred since it is a darker green, more disease-resistant, easier to mow and finer bladed. It is also less likely to stain clothing, shoes and kids.

   Determine the amount of seed you’ll need:
   Annual Rye: 10 to 15 pounds per 1,000 square feet.
   Perennial Rye: 8 to 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

   Sow the seeds evenly by use of a broadcast spreader. Spread half of the seeds in one direction and the other half perpendicular to the first half. Fill in the edges by hand, being careful not to leave clumps of seed, as each individual seed becomes a new blade of grass.

4. Top Dressing Top dressing is required typically only when overseeding is desired in unusually cold weather, or as an optional step that can help retain moisture and warmth for seed germination. Seed should be covered with no more than 1/4 inch of weed-free material, such as peat moss, forest mulch, or manure (close the windows!).
5. Irrigate Keep the seeds moist for 10-14 days. Water 3-4 times per day for short durations (approx. 5 min) at 9:00 am, noon, 2:00 pm., and 4:00 pm.

   When the grass reaches one inch in height, reduce watering to once a day.

   After the second mowing (approx. 4-6 weeks after overseeding), reduce the water to an as-needed basis, applying 2-3 times per week. Once the lawn is established, and depending on temperature, wind and rain, watering may be reduced to as little as every other week. Water winter lawns only enough to avoid wilt between waterings.

6. Mowing When the grass reaches about 2 inches (about 2-4 weeks after overseeding), mow to a height of 1 ½”. Cut only the top one-third of the grass blade at any mowing. Removing more than one-third interrupts photosynthesis (the plant's ability to make food) and causes some of the deeper roots to die.

   Perennial rye can be mowed lower than annual rye, but it is best to allow the grass to become established before closer mowing to prevent seedlings from being yanked from the earth. Always use a sharp mower blade. Dull blades shred the grass tips, which turn brown and can create entry wounds for diseases. Do not mow when the lawn is wet or frozen.

7. Fertilizing About 2 weeks after overseeding, fertilize with a 16-20-0 or lawn starter fertilizer. Apply enough water to thoroughly saturate the fertilizer.

   After your winter lawn is established, fertilize every four to six weeks with one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, using a balanced fertilizer such as a blend of 21-7-14.

Keeping your lawn green all winter pays great dividends. It maintains the beauty of your overall landscape, allows you to continue having a functional area for children and pets to play, and provides space for family gatherings. It also protects your dormant grass, as it absorbs nutrients below ground through its roots.

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CACTI AND OTHER SUCCULENTS

Succulents, including cacti, yuccas, agaves and aloes, make a unique contribution to the landscape. They have a popular image as tough, low-water-use plants, superbly adapted to intense sun, heat and water stress. This reputation is well deserved by a number of species that manage to grow under some of the harshest conditions found in Arizona. However, succulents are native to a broad range of habitats that vary from hot to cool, dry to moderately moist and sunny to shady.

Irrigation – One Size Does Not Fit All

Succulents vary considerably in their water requirements. Many landscape cacti in Arizona appreciate at least a monthly watering, depending upon the amount of rain. However, some cacti and succulents like Saguaro, Barrel cacti, Prickly Pear, and Agaves can become naturalized in the landscape on native rainfall alone. Succulents will grow more rapidly and produce more flowers if given extra water. Over-watering, however, may cause exaggerated growth and increase susceptibility to pests.

Ocotillos are a deciduous shrub that do not require water and can typically take up to 3 years to produce any signs of life, even under the best circumstances.

Pruning

Succulents do not require routine shaping, but the occasional removal of leaves or pads will help maintain desired shape and plant health. Some Agave and Aloe varieties produce offshoot plants at their base. It may be necessary to remove the plant groups to prevent crowding. These plant groups can be transplanted into pots or other areas of your landscape, or shared with friends.

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TREE CARE

Most shrubs and trees, especially those with larger leaves, go through an acclimation period after being planted. This is commonly referred to as "transplant shock." Transplant shock is due in part to the tree or plant moving from the cooler, shadier environment of a nursery to your hotter and probably sunnier yard. This is most prevalent in summer months. The digging and agitation of roots that is normal during the transplanting process can also contribute to a temporary decline in appearance of newly planted trees and shrubs.

When and how much irrigation to give depends on many variables: the needs of the particular species, its size and age, the soil composition, time of year, sun exposure, and what water it may get from other sources. These guidelines will get you started.

Irrigation

Water daily or at least every other day for the first 10 to 14 days. After the first couple of weeks, effective watering requires close observation. You’ll want to observe how wet (or dry) your soil is between waterings. Tree roots spread widely, even beyond the outer edges of the foliage and with roots up to three feet deep. Take a two-foot long, skinny metal bar and push it into the soil, near the outer edge of the tree well. If your tree is watered properly, the probe should push in, fairly easily, to the proper depth. Adjust the water and continue checking with the probe until you develop your own customized water schedule. Remember that deep watering is preferred to shallow watering, as roots will be forced to reach deeper for water (shallow watering = shallow roots).

Pruning

Regular thinning of the tree's canopy should be done to allow the desert winds to move through without blowing the tree over. Most desert trees, when pruned into an aesthetic canopy, will tend to develop crowns larger than the span of their root system, making them susceptible to uprooting. A thinning of the secondary branches allows the major branching structure to remain intact. Tree stakes should be removed only after the tree has grown a trunk strong enough to easily support the head of the tree.

Palm trees require little special maintenance outside of fertilizing and occasional pruning. For information on Palm Trees that thrive in the Phoenix area, visit our supplier’s website at http://www.pacificpalms.com.

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PHOENIX SHRUB AND GROUND COVER CARE

Newly planted trees and shrubs need regular watering to encourage rapid establishment and good growth. The first four to six weeks are most critical for plants set out in spring or summer. Those planted in cool fall or winter weather require less frequent irrigation during the establishment period.

Irrigation

No single watering schedule can be applied to all recently planted nursery stock. Variable capacity drip emitters on drip irrigation systems will help obtain optimum watering. The nature of the soil, the weather, site microclimate and the water needs of the individual plants determine irrigation requirements. During the early stages of establishment in the landscape, it is best to keep the root ball and backfill soil moist. Keep new plantings damp for ten to fourteen days (longer in warm weather) until they begin to grow, indicating that they are becoming established. Then gradually reduce the watering schedule to match the plant's needs. Shrubs have roots at least as wide as the foliage spread and several feet deep. Ground cover and flowers are shallowly rooted, to one foot deep. The key to thorough irrigation is to soak the root zone.

Drip Irrigation Guideline

• New Landscape - Summer 4-6 days a week, 30-60 minutes.
• New Landscape - Winter 2-3 days a week, 30-60 minutes.

• Mature Landscape - Summer 2-3 days a week, 60 minutes.
• Mature Landscape - Winter 1-2 days a week, 60 minutes.

Pruning

Regular shaping of shrubs will create a full, uniform-looking planting, but when it comes to plant health, less trimming is usually the healthiest alternative. Try not to prune plants into unnatural shapes. Rather, prune to create a natural shape based on the growth pattern of the shrub, allowing for maximum sun exposure on lower branches.

Temperatures in some areas of the Valley can reach freezing during the winter. Plants like Bougainvillea, Hibiscus, Lantana, and other semi-tropicals are frost sensitive and can become damaged when temperatures drop below 32 F. No pruning of affected foliage should take place until the threat of further frosts has passed. Affected plants usually recover quickly with the onset of warm weather.

Fertilizing

A light application of fertilizer four to six weeks after planting will encourage good root growth and foliage color. Most lawn and garden fertilizers are effective if applied at label-recommended rates for new transplants.

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ROCK GROUND COVER

Rip Rap, River Rock, gravel or granite areas can be kept clean with the use of a blower or simple leaf rake. To insure that weeds do not overtake these areas, be sure to apply pre-emergent to all granite areas yearly. Post-emergent chemicals such as Roundup can be used for spot control when weeds have already sprouted.

Visit our local rock supplier at http://www.mdirock.com/.